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 The Baltics
 July 12'th to july 25'th 2008
 Vilnius

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Saturday, July 12’Th

It’s a strange thing not to a trip by taking the bus to Billund. But I have moved to Aarhus, so the bus to Billund is of no use today. Instead it’s the train bound for Copenhagen. My Air Baltic plane leaves for Vilnius at 8.30 pm.

The flight takes about 1½ hour, and with the difference in time on one hour it’s about 11 pm as we land in Vilnius. I find a taxi for the ride into town and my hotel Domus Maria. I arrive at about midnight, and go to bed.

Sunday, July 13’Th

Domus Maria is an old convent, close to a few fine churches. Now it’s been rebuilt into a nice Guesthouse.

I get up early – at 8 am and after breakfast I head for the town. Because my mind has been on moving to Aarhus and a new job, this trip is not as pre-planed as I use to do. But Vilnius is a simple and not to big city, so it’s easy to find my way around I start out with 3 sights close to Domus Maria.

First it’s the church of St. Teresa. It’s packed with people this early Sunday morning. Then it’s The Gates of Dawn, an old city-gate from the 16’Th century. Under the roof there’s a small chapel also packed with people. Finally there’s the Russion Orthodox church of The Holy Spirit. They are allowed sleeping a little longer. The place is just filling up on this time of the day.

2 Babooshka's outside Gates of Dawn

Gedimino Tower

I continue my first tour of Vilnius to the more touristic parts of town. Well – there are not too many tourists around on a Sunday morning. There are only a few tour-groups hanging out. After a few hours it starts to rain so I head back toward the hotel.

On the way back I pick up a cup of coffee at a café. When I’m there the rain stops. So instead of going to Domus Maria I pick up the city-tour again. I walk along some nice streets toward Gediminas Hill where a small railroad takes me to the top. It would be pretty ease to walk up the hill, but that’s not allowed. There’s a fine view from the top.

Down again and a visit to the Vilnius Cathedral. A mass is going on, and the place is packed. In front of the church there’s a strange tower. At the bottom it looks like a lighthouse, but then someone discovered there’s no water around – so the rest is built like a bell-tower instead.

Enough sightseeing for trip one, so it’s back to Domus Maria for a short stop.

Trip 2 is shorter. I visit the only Frank Zappa memorial monument I have ever seen. When I’m there it starts to rain again. This time it’s serious, so I head for my hotel. There’s thunder and lightning all evening, so the time is spend at room 205, before heading for dinner at local place a little later.

Old Town Vilnius

Monday, July 14’Th

From the University of Vilnius

This day is a bit of the beaten tourist-track of Vilnius in the “Old Town”.

First trip is for “New Town”, via the Vilnius University that dates back to 1579. It’s the oldest university in Eastern Europe. There are some nice buildings with some nice yards in a nice neighbourhood. The Presidents palace is just on the other side of the road.

Then I head for New Town along the shopping-street of Gedimino Prospekta. My intention was to visit the building that formerly was used by both KGB and Gestapo, but now is a museum for the victims. Unfortunately it’s closed on Mondays, so I will have to wait for that. Instead I head for the Lithuanian Parliament, which is very very ugly.

Back towards town along Gedimino and all the shops. I cross River Neris for a visit to the shopping-centre called Europa. It’s amazing – no matter where you end up in the world these days – you find shopping-centres like these. This completes Trip 1 of the day, so I head back for a break at the hotel.

Björk was also visiting Vilnius

From Uzopis

Trip 2 is for a very nice area called Uzopis. This is not the traditional tourist place. It’s an independent area, who has claimed their freedom and has got its own constitution. You can find it on a wall in 4 different languages. For instance a dog has the right to be a dog; a cat has a right to an owner, but can decide it doesn’t want that owner anyway. It’s ok to share anything that you own, but it’s not ok to share what you don’t own. I really like such weird places.

Vilnius is a great city to stroll around especially when you get a little out of the tourist-zone. And then it’s cheap. A pizza at a restaurant is about 3 €, and a large beer is 1.50 €.

Tuesday, July 15’Th

It’s time for a half daytrip to Trakai. I take a local bus through the outskirts of Vilnius. It’s a 30 km ride and it takes about 45 minutes to reach Trakai.

Trakai is a nice area with lakes and a castle on a small island in the middle of one of them. Count Kestutis started to build the castle back in the 14’Th century. Now it is a great place for a day out for the people living in Vilnius. The area around is populated with some people called The Karaits. They arrived from Krim back in the 14’Th century but are originally from around Baghdad. They live in some very fine and colourful wooden-houses. There are only 12 families left, so it won’t be long before they are gone.

Trakai

Trakai Castle

I take the bus back to Vilnius early afternoon for my usual break at the hotel.

Trip 2 is a walk around Vilnius. A visit to the post-office that is just like old eastern-European days. It’s so slow, and no one cares about the long line of people waiting at the desk. It takes ½ an hour to buy a stamp for my postcard.

Wednesday, July 16’Th

There’s not many sights left in Vilnius, but today I visit what’s left.

First sight is the Museum of Genocide. It’s very interesting. It used to be headquarters for both KGB and Gestapo. The museum is about the soviet-era – about deportation to Siberia, political prisoners and the Lithuanian freedom-movement. In the basement you find the old KGB-cells for political prisoners. Here they were interrogated, tortured and now and then shot. It’s creepy. They haven’t done much to the place, so it looks a lot like it used to when it was used for these terrible things. But certainly a very exiting place to visit.

From the cells

Russian Orthodox Church

From there I cross the Taurakalnis-park nice views across Vilnius to the Rusian Orthodox church of Romanov. I like the roof that looks like green onions.

Then it’s lunchtime and a visit to a Casino to get rid of my coins. You are not allowed to bring weapons into the Casino, so I don’t.

The rest of the day is spent in the fine yard at my hotel reading a book, before dinner-time at my local favourite Cili. And this was Vilnius.

To Riga